You have to approach a restaurant named “Exotica” with slightly raised eyebrows. Making my way to Pier 6, off Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska, images flashed through my mind of sushi served on the recumbent bodies of naked women or a smoky Kyiv cabaret. I was relieved when my guest informed me that the “exotica” we were about to experience was Latino-Asian fusion cuisine – not as exciting as I had envisioned, but suitable for all tastes.

A cheerful rainbow-colored sign announces Exotica’s presence on the top floor of a floating entertainment complex shared with Chinese restaurant Mandarin and edgy Modabar. Better approach from the left gangplank leading to Modabar, and from there climb a few floors to reach your tropical feeding ground.

The decor is best described as “tiki bar” – with carved wooden columns, primitive-chic lamps made of paper and sticks dangling from the ceiling, Gauguin-style artwork, and live potted palms. Tribal masks and dried flower arrangements adorn walls tiled in bamboo-edged African prints. Neon tubes in various primary colors decorate the center of the room like oversized rainbow sprinkles. Tables ring an equally colorful Pacific-themed bar and floor space that tempts tipsy guests to try out their salsa technique to the catchy Gipsy Kings soundtrack.

A hostess uniformed in a Hawaiian floral shirt paired with zebra-striped skirt led us to a table curtained off with decorative mosquito netting. In spite of the relative privacy offered from other guests, the tables are a bit wide for intimate conversation. They are, however, sturdy enough to hold lots of food, though at around Hr 100 per entree, you might want to practice some restraint.

Diving into our menus, decorated with the same images of bare-breasted Tahitian women and lush jungle greenery as the interior, we decided to forgo a bottle of wine (Hr 300 for a Chilean sauvignon blanc) for pints of Stella Artois (Hr 15). Warsteiner was also available, but the Ukrainian brews were probably not “exotic” enough to make the list.

On par with other upscale restaurants in Kyiv, the menu features a variety of salads, appetizers, soups, meat and fish dishes, shashlyk, potatoes, and the ubiquitous sushi. “The menu reminds me of Noah’s Ark,” my guest remarked, since it seems to include two of everything in an otherwise diverse assortment. What distinguishes Exotica (which does, in fact, mean “exotic” in Spanish) are details like peanut dressing on the salad with veal medallions and Spanish appetizers like salmon ceviche and paella.

Above each table, a flat-screen television offers a distraction from one’s dining companions. Appetizing as it is to watch detailed footage of the savannah food chain in action interspersed with Jacques Cousteau’s deep sea explorations, fortunately our food arrived shortly after we ordered. And, I should note, properly sequenced – beer preceding the appetizers, followed by entrees – which is not always guaranteed in this town. Another nice touch reflected Exotica’s Asian influences – hot wet towels to wipe our hands with before eating.

Like at any good Ukrainian restaurant, the meal began with a basket of bread and a little pot of dill-seasoned butter. We commenced our examination of Exotica’s “Latino” fare with the “tortilla chips and dips” (Hr 39), which scored low marks for their tough, crunchy texture and meager portion size. The three dips arrived in tiny finger bowls. A salsa of tomato, red pepper, and onion barely hit mild on the spice and flavor meter, while the creamy garlic and dill sauce was passable, and we could only speculate that the orange mayonnaise-y liquid in the third bowl was Russian dressing.

Our disappointment didn’t last, for the salad with veal medallions (Hr 58) was far more worthy of our attention. With five pieces of well-done meat exuding the rich flavor of the grill nestled between mixed greens, cherry tomatoes, and croutons, with a few red pepper kernel accents, all drizzled in a light, sweet peanut sauce finished with a generous sprinkling of sesame seeds, it caused my companion to burst out: “Twelve thumbs up! Super good!”

Next was the salmon ceviche, which was quite different from the soupy dish my guest had eaten in Costa Rica. Bite-sized morsels of spiced fish were arranged around a lemon-sugar sauce in the center of the plate instead of being served like a salad to spread on toast or tortilla chips. The sauce was a superfluous gesture, as the natural flavor of the salmon was already masked by its citrus marinade.

With barely a moment to rest, our seafood and chicken paella (Hr 142) was served in a surprisingly small bowl, not quite meeting our expectations of a large, steaming dish that draws diners closer to the center of the table with its tantalizing aromas. A few rings of squid, shrimps, pieces of chicken, and green peas adorned a dense sea of sticky rice whose flavor resembled a Rice-A-Roni mix.

But another foil to the former flop: pepper steak (Hr 99). A deceivingly simple name for a complex array of flavors. A sizable chunk of meat with a dark pepper-crusted exterior formed the centerpiece of the dish, ringed with potato wedges alternating with tomato quarters, each on a leaf of fresh basil. One slice revealed the meat still pink in places, a soft and tender contrast to the crispy spiced crust. Delicious!

Our waiter also lauded the fish dishes, like oysters on the grill; pike with mushrooms and cocktail sauce; or the grilled trout with chalet sauce. Contrary to the suggestion of its name, our experience found Exotica strongest in more “European-style” meat dishes and salads, which showcase exquisite skill in preparation and innovative flavoring.

We were stuffed, but the fried ice cream – translated as “Morozyvo Fri” – caught our attention. As we waited, our server brought fresh watermelon slices, courtesy of the chef. Then we continued to wait, for almost as long as the entire former part of our meal, wondering whether the kitchen staff was out milking the cow and churning the ice cream while we watched video of complacent fish drifting over the tiki bar. Finally it appeared: a ball of ice cream encrusted in fried dough swimming in a puddle of custard sauce and garnished with strawberries and mint. Not your common sidewalk scoop, and a delicious culmination of our cross-cultural meal.

EXOTICA (Naberezhno-Khreshchatytska, pier 6, 428-7249)

Open daily from 12:00 p.m. till 1 a.m.

English menu: Yes
English-speaking staff: Yes

by Larissa Babij, Editor